Holy Taco

Holy Taco is a restaurant/bar located in East Atlanta with a taqueria-style lunch and dinner menu and a decidedly laid-back vibe.

Holy Taco has a winning atmosphere. The spacious patio has been made even more inviting with a series of light boxes around the perimeter, plantings of flowers, herbs and vegetables, and a pergola equipped with ceiling fans. Inside, the look is chic and spare, with multiple crosses covering the walls. And the L-shaped bar remains a convivial spot for regulars to gather for a drink and a snack.

Chef Robert Phalen (Alon's; Mumbo Jumbo; MidCity Cuisine) has put together an a la carte menu centered on tacos, quesadillas and tortas (Mexican sandwiches). Among those offerings, the tortas are perhaps the most unusual and satisfying. Choices include beef brisket, poached chicken, fried fish and pork belly, all served on an elegant, crusty, bolillo-like roll from Alon's. Grilled shrimp, topped with layers of lettuce, tomato, onion, pickled jalapeño and thinly sliced radishes, is a juicy delight. Tacos, which can be ordered on fresh, locally made corn tortillas, are bargain-priced, but the fillings tend to be a tad skimpy. Ditto the mini quesadillas.

Phalen's appetizers are the most adventurous section of the menu, from shrimp cocktail in spicy 19th Hole Bloody Mary mix to Colombian corn cakes and fried rum chicken bites. Roasted corn on the cob, nicely charred and covered in a slick of sticky white cheese, will be even better in season. A chile relleno, fried-up in a delicately crispy coating, oozes a milky cheese filling, surrounded by a tasty tomato coulis. Avocado salad is a fresh melange of greens, pickled red onions, oven-roasted tomatoes, and sliced avocados in a creamy dressing. Entrees, served after 5 p.m., include grilled steak with beans and corn tortillas, and flautas stuffed with chicken. Garlicky, roasted Peruvian-style chicken comes in moist, brown-skinned hunks, with a side of veggie-dotted Mexican rice.

At the bar, the beer list reflects McDonald's English pub roots, with Tetley's and London Pride on draft, alongside Erdinger and Red Brick Blonde. But besides the usual Mexican lagers, there's also Dogfish Head 60 and Victory Golden Monkey in the bottle. The tasty, not-too-sweet, organic house margarita is made with Sauza Blanco, organic agave nectar and fresh lime juice.